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喝壮行酒,越马爬犁,他们是查干湖畔最古老的渔猎部落
发布时间:2019-02-25 09:15 点击:
吉林省西北部,霍林河末端,松花江与嫩江的交汇处,就是中国第七大淡水湖——查干湖。
查干湖是我国十大淡水湖之一,也是吉林重要的渔业生产基地。去年9月26日,习近平总书记到查干湖考察,与这里的渔夫、渔把头亲切交谈。
总书记说,绿水青山、冰天雪地都是金山银山。保护生态和发展生态旅游相得益彰,这条路要扎实走下去。他祝愿大家“年年有鱼,年年有余”。
凌晨4点,在白雪覆盖的查干湖上,头戴貉皮帽子、身披羊皮袄的东北汉子赶马、拖耙犁、拉网
2018年12月28日,中国·查干湖第十七届冰雪渔猎文化旅游节盛大开幕的日子,渔把头张文早早地带着他52人的捕鱼队,喝过大碗的壮行酒,翻上马爬犁,在暮色的黎明中驶向圣湖,渔民们黑红的脸庞上绽开着祈望丰收的微笑。
Before dawn on Dec 28, 2018, Zhang Wen and his team drove en masse out onto the frigid, icy expanse of Chagan Lake in Songyuan in Northeast China's Jilin province.
查干湖畔生活着世界上最古老的渔猎部落,冰湖渔猎文化在这里传承了千年。如今,他们成为了世界上唯一的也是最后一处被自然和人类完整保存下来的渔猎部落。
在漫长的历史岁月里,查干湖渔猎文化传承着自己鲜明而独特的历史记忆和神奇、神圣、神秘的历史过往,从远古到今天,正展示着“最后的渔猎部落”那深深的文化内涵和渔猎人的情怀。
Fishing on frozen Chagan Lake is an ancient tradition that dates back to the Jin Dynasty (1115-1234) and the lake now is the only place in the world where age-old traditional Mongolian fishing methods are still practiced.
湖畔村庄的各色物件看起来都和“鱼”有关,院子里、房顶上、围墙边晒着渔网,贴在玻璃上的窗花和门框上的对联,也大都以“鱼”为题,就连小孩子的书包也满是鱼的图案。
曾经一网打出42万斤的历史记录也赋予了查干湖和这里的渔民足够的神奇和灵性。神话传说和先民轶事,让这里的人们坚定了对“圣湖”的崇拜。这种对天地和自然的虔诚和惜护世代延续,传承至今。
当无垠的白雪厚厚地覆盖在查干湖面上的时候,湖边的渔猎人家开始备好上冰的冰镩和马轮、渔网,忙碌一冬天的冬捕就这样开始了。
5点多,捕鱼队到达冬捕地点,根据多年积累的经验,渔把头张文选定了鱼群聚集的地方,用旗钎子在冰面上戳出一个长方形印记,两个渔工随即围着这个印记凿出400多个小冰洞,将2000米长的大网通过相隔60多米的冰洞,用传杆、扭矛和走钩在半米厚的冰层下慢慢舒展成一个硕大的“包鱼圈”,整个下网过程就持续了几个小时。
After the head fisherman signaled the spot where fish were expected to gather, more than 400 holes were drilled around the spot, 60 meters apart. About 50 fishermen worked together to cast a 2,000-meter-long net through the holes and under the ice.
几个小时过后,5匹马拉动出网轮,渔网徐徐而出,湖面上,号子声、欢呼声、马蹄声此起彼伏,鱼儿们跳跃着、翻腾着,鱼身带着温度,在空中生成蒙蒙雾气,著名的“ 冰湖腾鱼”场景出现了,这一网打出了10万多斤鲜鱼。
Several hours later, the net was pulled out by horses with tens of thousands kilograms of fresh fish in it.
冰寒彻骨的湖面,游客们打着寒颤,不住地跺着脚,而渔工们却忙得热火朝天,没有丝毫寒意。他们穿着厚重的羊皮袄、貉壳帽子、狐狸皮帽子、大头鞋、手闷子。不讲究美观,但却保暖实用,特别适合冰上作业。
Sheepskin hats and coats were their protection against the subfreezing temperature of around -20°C.
每年第一次捕获的最大的鱼被认为是最吉祥的鱼,通常会被高价拍卖。在随后进行的头鱼拍卖仪式上,经过数轮竞拍,15公斤重的头鱼拍卖价格创下历史新高,成交价999999元!
The price for the first catch at Chagan Lake this year—a 15-kilogram fish—broke the record at auction at 999,999 yuan during the day's auction.
查干湖冬捕从每年12月中旬开始, 到次年1月中旬结束。在冬季最寒冷的40多天里, 湖面上的冰平均厚度为1.5至2米,这使得鱼进入一个只有0.5至1米深的水域,使用大渔网捕鱼相当容易。
On the coldest days of winter, the ice on the lake, which has an average depth of 1.5 to 2 meters, can be 1 m thick. This drives fish into an area of water only 0.5 to 1 m deep and makes fishing with large nets quite easy.
查干湖周边的渔民, 他们一直坚持着“马拉绞盘”这种古老的捕鱼方式,不使用机器。
Fishermen around Chagan Lake, who can earn an annual income of 100,000 yuan to 200,000 yuan, have upheld the ancient fishing practices.
然而,老一辈的查干湖渔民却还清楚地记得,上世纪60年代至70年代初,由于种种原因,查干湖几近干涸,白花花的盐碱面子满天飞,周边田地都碱化了。当时有许多人背井离乡,留下来的人们只能靠扫碱、熬碱、卖碱维持生计。
1984年,滔滔松花江水引入查干湖,水量逐渐丰厚的查干湖开始注重生态治理。植树造林、退耕还草、保护湿地生态系统……几十年的努力,让查干湖恢复了盎然生机。
In 1984, the water of the Songhuajiang River was diverted to Chagan Lake. Since then, the local government has attached great importance to protecting the lake, including planting trees and grass in the areas surrounding it.
如今的查干湖,湖里有鲤鱼、鲫鱼、草鱼、鲢鱼、鳌鱼等68多个优质品种,丹顶鹤、白天鹅、白琵鹭等在此栖息,山鸡、野兔、狐狸到处可见。查干湖的鱼,穿越大江南北,远销到新疆、西藏、海南等全国各地。
Its efforts have borne fruit. Now the lake has more than 68 kinds of fish, including carp and chub. The area is also home to such birds as red-crowned cranes, Eurasian spoonbills, white swans and pheasants, as well as hares and foxes.
查干湖的渔民很聪明,他们很懂得珍惜和保护,也深知以湖养湖的道理。冬季捕鱼季节每天只允许四支捕鱼队工作,每年捕鱼的数量也会设定上限,以确保查干湖生态的可持续发展。
Now fishermen keep nature in mind when fishing from Chagan Lake in order to preserve the tradition for generations to come. The amount of fish that can be caught is capped annually to avoid draining the lake, ensuring that there will be fish for years to come. Only four fishing teams are allowed to work every day during the winter fishing season.
前郭尔罗斯蒙古族自治县原旅游局副局长、渔猎节总策划人肖慧超对记者说:“头渔拍卖不是一项纯粹的商业行为。所得资金全部用于查干湖的生态保护建设,也包括每年定期补充施放鱼苗等。参与竟拍的企业其实也是在对保护查干湖、保护冬捕这一古老的传统奉献爱心,也体现了我们的企业足够强的生态意识和环保理念。”
Money from the fish auction has been invested in protecting the lake and surrounding areas, according to Xiao Huichao, former deputy director of the tourism department of Qianguo Mongolian autonomous county.
“查干湖冬季捕是对古代捕鱼部落研究的活化石,”吉林省民俗学家曹保明说,“渔猎过程中的每一个细节,都尽显查干湖冬捕文化传统。查干湖渔猎保存着人们对历史的记忆。”
The traditional skills required for Chagan Lake winter fishing are now listed among the China's intangible cultural heritage. Folklore experts speak highly of the lake's winter fishing.
岁月更迭,查干湖冬捕的神奇、神秘与神圣依旧。查干湖冬捕已被列为国家级非物质文化遗产。
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